This journal brings you into my attempt at restoring a 1934 John Deere GP Standard. The tractor was purchased partially disassembled in Nebraska in the spring of this year. My brother and I picked it up along with a GPWT purchased in Iowa.

Finally, back home after about 30 hours of travel in 3 days.

The next several pictures shows the dis-assembly of the remainder of the tractor. The jib crane definately is one of the best tools I have added to my shop.







Another member of the pit crew is added.
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Continuing with the dis-assembly.







I wrestled with it for two days but finally everything was apart.

I took the main case into a friend of mine's automotive shop where it went into the hot tank for about one week. This is what came back out.

Next, a good dose of muratic acid was applied and washed off. A wire wheel was used to remove any remaining stubborn paint or grime and a coat of phosphoric acid was applied. Lookin pretty good after removing 73 years of paint, rust, grease and dirt or at least that is what my chief clean-er-upper had to say.

Another shot of the main case after cleaning.

Next, came some self-etching primer. Once, again it appears to have met approval.

Since it is a family tradition that no self respecting tractor restoration can be complete without a good bath in half diesel/half kerosene, I preceded to mix up a batch and commenced cleaning transmission and engine parts.

I must have inhaled too many fumes because my next bright idea was to do a little sandblasting in the middle of July. Since, I enjoy the hobby along with my dad and two brothers, I made a few phone calls and we all decided to have a community sandblasting weekend. So we each loaded up what we wanted to sand blast and converged at dad's place on a very hot weekend in July. While it was too hot and furious to take any pictures during the action, here are a few of the results.



Next came the phosphoric acid.


Then self-etching primer.

Now, we start to put it back together. Good thing Audrey remembers how it went.

This next photo may be what I always remember about restoring this tractor. Audrey was given the task of re-installing the drain plug in the bottom of the transmission case. It took near 15 minutes to accomplish and I do not think that I have laughed so hard in my life. Each time she thought it had started to thread, she would let go to get another hold and it would fall and hit the floor. She started talking to that drain plug and let me tell you, that girl already knows how to give orders. Each time it fell out, her conversation with it expanded and the harder I laughed.

Not only does this picture show the results of Audrey's efforts, it shows the bull gears and reverse shaft being reinstalled.

With a little more effort, the spline shaft and shifter shafts are reinstalled.

And the 1st reduction gear is added.


Next, we being reassembling the final drives. New bearing cones and cups will be installed throughout. The cup was installed first, followed by the bearing cone and retainer. However, where ever I can, I try to replace the original felt seals with modern oil seals. Although, I was not able to find a seal that would exactly fit, with the installation of a thin shim, one was found that appears will work.

With the axle installed, the final drive was flipped over for installation of the interior bearing cups and cones.

Followed by the drive gears and chain.

After installation of the cover, the final drive is ready to be reinstalled on the main case.

We are continuing to reassemble and install the final drives.


The quality control inspector shows up on the job.

With considerable imagination, it is beginning to look like something again.


Might as well start splattering some paint around. P.S. It seems I have developed a problem with my camera. The color of some of the pictures is really strange. It is John Deere green paint I am applying.



Took a break to sand between coats of paint.

After another coat of paint, parts are ready to be re-installed on the tractor.

New bushings were installed in the front axle.

An initial coat of green was added to the main body of the tractor to get in some of those hard to reach areas prior to installing the various parts.

The next picture is of the rebuilt governor. It was disassembled, cleaned, new pins made for the weights, new bearing cups and cones were installed and it was reassembled. Does anyone know where to get good bits to drill through the governor drive gear. I would be embarassed to tell how may drill bits I destroyed in this process.

As many of you who have GP's are aware, oil leaking into the brake drum is a relatively common occurance. There are generally two sources for the leaks. The first is along the shaft that the drum mounts on. I attempted to solve this leak by replacing the original bearing and washer with a bearing that is sealed on one side. I also replaced the felt seal which goes on the inside of the brake drum with an oil seal. The second location is along the brake cam. I am attemping to stop this leak by the machining and installation of two oil seals on the brake cam. A photo of the cam follows:

Next I turned to the block. The block was really in pretty good shape. It was a running tractor before being disassembled. It has light surface rust in both cylinders so I quickly ran a drill mounted hone to remove the surface rust. This is cylinder No. 1.

and cylinder No. 2

The rough looking areas shown in the bottom of each cylinder were a more of a discoloration than pitting. They were completely gone when I got the block back from the shop after a vertical hone had been ran through each cylinder. Each cylinder was found to be within 0.015 of standard so boring oversize was not needed. (How often do you think that is going to happen?). Next, I touched up the valve seats.

Added a couple of coats of paint.

and installed on the tractor along with the belly pan and front axle.

Installed new valves. Valves were numbered to correspond with machining done at the shop.

I completed the valve installation with some new valve springs. New tappet adjusting bolts were made using Grade 8, fine thread bolts with the ends surfaced in a valve stem grinder.

Next came installation of the cam and crankshaft. The assembly went together with seemingly little trouble. However, on the first picture below, note the two hex head bolts on the right side of the picture with lock washers and wired heads. Oh how such common things can be the source of tremendous frustration.


After completing the installation of the crank and all the necessary wiring in place. I set my sights on the first reduction cover. It went in place with little effort and I began to tighten some bolts toward the back of the cover. I noticed that the front of the cover was not quite touching the main case. So, stupid me, decides to tighten the front bolts a few turns figuring that it would go right into place. The next thing I know, I hear this ominous cracking noice that was louder than any thunder. Upon opening my eyes, a newly formed crack appeared midway between the two bolts from the front of the cover to the round opening where the clutch drum goes. To keep this journal 'G' rated, I will forego telling my thoughts and utterances at this moment. To summarize, it appears there is not enough room between the main case and first reduction cover for the installation of the lock washers on those two dastardly bolts mentioned above. To fix my mistake, a perfectly good paint job was sandblasted away so that I could braze the crack from the inside. Since, I was brazing, I figured I would go ahead and braze the gashes made in the radius rods by years of turning too sharp with improper adjustment of the stops on the steering box.


Upon being brazed, the cover was repainted and after about a week's delay was reinstalled on the tractor to even the satisfaction of Audrey.

Since the shop was beginning to get in a state of disaster, Allie stepped in to restore the numerous tools strewn about to their respective homes.

However, master Luke would have none of it. He ordered me back to work on the tractor.

But with energy waning, we packed it up for the weekend.

Now refreshed, the pistons, head, oil filter, upper water pipe and governor were installed.

Next, new oil lines were made and installed using copper tubing and the old fittings.

I am going to try out having the muffler and exhaust manifold powder coated. Therefore, I temporarily installed these items so that I could cut off the muffler equal to the height of the air stack before having it powdercoated.

Next, came the dreaded job of fitting the new sheet metal. I began with the rear deck and cross member.

Followed by the right fender


Followed by the left fender

Audrey got pretty excited about seeing fenders on the tractor. Next, I moved on to the tool box.

And then the foot rests and floor piece.

and finally the left dust shield

Surprisingly, fitting the sheet metal was accomplished with few problems.

Look's good.