OK, the backstory that I've probably told 50 plus times:

My grandpa has had an old unstyled D for years, used it as his farm tractor for quite a while. When I got started on this old tractor hobby a few years back, he drug it out after sitting for quite a few years, and got it running. IF you'd call it that. VERY low compression. Large hole in the manifold, welded studs on the manifold, etc. Needed plenty of work. And a time later, I happened to run across this neat thing called Green Magazine. Then managed to find an article on the industrial DI. On a whim, checked the serial number, and my grandpa actually had a DI! #140337, shipped to Ohio, and still there!!!!

Well, finding this out definitely made me want to "do it right" on fixing it. Therefore it has pretty much sat sense then. The major factor has been that there is no place to work on it. Everything I have to work on needs to be able to be moved (can't sit in the shed, cause something else always needs maintained, worked on, etc). The DI should be able to sit for a while.

This weekend we finally FINALLY drug it out of the carport and to my grandpa's shed!


Me on the 70, my uncle on the DI, for the slow trip to the "farm". Back to the shed where it sat in the first place!


Finally in the shed. Removed the left front tire, as it was, well, TRASHED


Another front tire on so it can be rolled. And the radiator is off. An AMAZING amount of rust inside the head and radiator. The radiator needs a new core too. Has anybody used K+K for unstyled D cores? Happy with them?


Off with it's head! I was suprised, nothing scary. Cylinders look good! Valves too! ALOT of rust in the water passages! It actually looks like a hone and ring job might take care of the cylinders.


The head with the cracked, welded and goobered up manifold.


The BIGGUN's. The cylinders that are BIGGER than a coffee can!


Removed a few more parts, waterpipe, fanshaft, etc.


What was left of the manifold after actually REMOVING a few nuts and BEATING the rest of it off. I will sell on Ebay as "Rare for DI only, NOS, some shelf wear only". Just kidding of course! I actually found a good condition manifold on Ebay a few years ago!


Can you believe that all but one of the manifold nuts+studs came out? My grandpa's proper application of a chisel and hammer managed to get 'em! And only one of those needed heat. The last one twisted off-nearest the camera. And would not come out no matter what. I think it got welded on! But ended up drilling it out, and most of the threads in the process. Will have to use a nut and bolt for that one.

I still cannot believe that the studs came out. The nuts had been WELDED on a couple!


The valves. Bigger than most small engine pistons!

Though the tractor will need work, it actually doesn't seem as bad as I imagined it would be. So far...

It is missing a few things, like most of the left hand wheel brake, which is a DI feature. Luckily the styled D used the same stuff.

My questions so far:

Are K+K radiator cores any good for the unstyled D?

What is a source for authentic (right thickness, etc) fenders? I know there is more than one supplier, but some are thinner I've heard?

I've seen repop air stacks, but haven't caught the name. Anybody know who makes 'em?

Anybody have any paint codes for the CORRRECT bright yellow that they used? The stuff that JD sells is useable, but too orange in my opinion.

I've got a couple numbers, but haven't compared yet to the few spots left on the tractor. Just any other numbers would be nice to compare.

By the way, this isn't a solo adventure. My grandpa, two uncles, and I are all messing with this thing. None of us like having our picture taken. But I do like TAKING pictures!

Brandon

whats the matter? have some of you'll be featured on americas most wanted? just kidding. i'm glad to see somebody has the guts to tackle big projects like this one. my b was used to rake hay and cultivate the family garden spot so it was nothing like this di, but i thought i had it rough. good luck with your project. i bet its making grand paw feel good to see it coming back to life. times you'll share with him will be priceless to you someday. take time to listen to the stories he'll tell you about things that happened with the tractor when he was using it. it will make the project even more dear to your heart as time goes by.

Brandon, it will be great to see this ole DI put in it's church clothes.I too can relate to the hard work,good times with the senior members of the family working together and the satisfaction that comes with a job well done.I will be following your progress closely. Thanks for posting.
As far as K&K , I have no experiance with D radiator cores from them ,But having been there several times picking up parts for the US A ,the late B,the late A and,the 720 ,plus having machine work done on a B block that had to be replaced. I would not hesitate to recomend any item they offer. The knowledge and friendlyness is refreshing to say the least. A trip down there would be a good experiance. Although maybe tough to find the first time. Good luck. Dave

You have a awesome situation there, with the grandpa and other family. Enjoy this and it will be with you for ever. Keep the pictures coming as you proceed with this project. Thanks

On the radiator remember that there is no ajustment when you bolt it back on so be carefull on the thickness of the gaskets that are used. On my McCormick deering They used thick gaskets and I had to machine some off the bottom of it to get it to bolt back on and on the D that wouldn't be an option. Them are some neat tractors. Good Luck

Thanks for the comments so far!

Some progress, got the radiator apart, actually wasn't too bad. Broke only a handful of the small bolts. I thought every one would snap!

The upper and bottom tanks do have a bit of rot though where the core bolts on. I'm thinking of using JB weld or something similar to build it up and get a smooth surface. Thanks for the tip pcsaw--I would never would have thought about gasket thickness or if we make the tanks too thick!

The front axle is off. Next is the block. Some of us want to leave the connecting rods/pistons on the crank. I don't know why...hopefully we'll just take 'em off. Then I can mic or plastigauge the rod bearings (which isn't the best way)

Brandon

Brandon:

Are the K&K cores supplied by A&I? If so, they A&I's that I have used have been just fine, but you might not get the same fins/inch, so it might look odd with that exposed radiator. Just something you might want to check out with other "D" people before you spend your money.

That is a good point FIT. Hopefully I can find a good looking repop.

Of course, if I ever get shutters on it, it'd be covered up again!

Brandon

OHHHHH Brandon

Been where you are and dont care to go back!!!- its been a year since I did the 30' for my father in law- BUT if you need any help dont hesitate a minute to drop me a line. I might be able to help you out and save ya some time on certain things.

Hopefully my Journal can help you through some of it.

Later and good luck-
Rob

Decided to move this thread, the Restoration Journal board is the best place for it.

Now for an update!!


A mugshot of one of the offenders.


The removed pistons


For some reason, this brake didn't work too well? All that grease, and the pedal was RUSTED stuck!


This brake didn't work either. No internal parts!


The quickly growing pile of parts! I wonder how it goes back together?


The removed flywheel. That thing weighs 150 pounds!!!!


Now some photos showing some history of the tractor. The block has very little paint on it. What is on it, is GREEN. Especially on the bottom that was covered by the front axle mount. So it is likely a replacement block.


This cap over the cam bearing is all green, on both sides. Kinda strange!


There is quite a bit of sticky black goo on the rear axles, and it isn't grease. Very hard to remove, with rocks in it too. If you get it hot, it smells like asphalt!! Hmm, roadwork history maybe?


The casting date on the main case. 207th day of 1937 most likely. Interesting, because the tractor wasn't "built" until March of 1938!

Brandon

The #1 rod journal


The #2 rod journal. Both look kinda rough. But they don't want to remove the crank. I haven't mic'ed it yet, but hopefully a polish will help.


And this nice welding job is why the govenor won't be removed. Right on one of the bolts too!


The special Industrial drawbar. Doesn't look too special. Worn out too.


Somebody who will remain nameless (me) tried to remove the service brake without draining the transmission. And promptly DRAINED the transmission. A full five gallon bucket, Most of another. And another fifty gallons of something that looked and felt like Hersheys chocolate syrup on the FLOOR!


The rods confuse me a little. These are babbited rods, correct? I didn't know that babbited rods could have removable bearings?

I also took the head and block to a local ma and pop machine shop that has treated me good in the past. There is some rust in the cylinders that they were concerned about, so they cleaned the block and honed it to see what it would look like. Still some rust spots. Then he used a dial bore gauge and found .018 of taper in one of the cylinders! And the other is about as bad. Still a stock bore. So now I'm looking for pistons, probably .45 over, maybe .90. I would like to use cast kerosene pistons. Anybody have a source for these?

Brandon

I forgot to update this for quite a while, mainly I've just been me ordering or searching for stuff. Not a whole lot of work.

Some major decisions/purchases since the last post:
Have decided to sleeve the block back to standard bore with the cast iron pistons that were in it. Luckily enough, a local machine shop can do this, and the first one I asked to boot! The machine shop is taking it's time with this....as long as it is done right I won't complain too much! They are also having new oversize piston pins made. I believe he said .010 over. We had to remove the studs from the block...this took a heavy stud puller+huge electric impact+pipe wrench to remove 'em! Luckily they all came out!

Ordered and received a set of fenders and radiator core from Detwilers. Not cheap, but the fenders look good. I just drug what's left of the old fenders out of the fencerow, and I'm gonna try to remove the angle iron (I forgot about that part!). The radiator tank flanges are pitted pretty bad but am going to fill in the pits with something similar to JB weld.

Ordered and received a set of gauges from Evergreen Restoration (Jerry Tricka). They look great! I was a little confused when the faces were different than I thought, but a quick+helpful reply from Jerry straightened me out!

Received a few wheel brake parts from Glen in Texas. Great price, very helpful! I've been tearing apart the side that is still complete, and I only need a few more parts, a pair of shoes, and the brake brace (torque arm). Surprisingly, JD still sells the shoes at $115 a piece, but YEAH, I think that's a bit high. I'm going to go to a industrial brake shop in our area to see if some other shoes can be made to work (and to reline the pair I have)

Just this weekend: Finally took one of the axles/quills out, need to replace seals. This was quite a heavy and MESSY job. There is still a few gallons of "stuff" in the transmission. I refuse to call it oil. TAR is a good description.

Been tearing apart the brakes (what's left of them!) finally got them mostly degreased, and the one side unstuck with lots of heat, and I have been putzing with the carb. If I don't screw up anything else on the carb, it will be good.

It's kinda funny, I still get excited when I find yellow paint. No good pics, but there is some on the rear axle we removed! And more on the brake plates.

[attachment=53:DI_30.jpg]
Shot of the tractor minus left rear axle. Have a board and wire holding up the final drive sprocket!

[attachment=54:DI_31.jpg]
A heavy piece of iron, the rear axle and housing. Very glad my grandpa came out to help! He didn't know what he was in for! Now I need to beat out the axle, clean it all out, replace the inner seal and outer felt. The REPEAT for the OTHER side. Ugh.

[attachment=55:DI_32.jpg]
The brake plate. Was covered in grease, and the brake shaft/quill were STUCK. Even with a grease fitting! The standard heat/beat/PB Blaster treatment got it loose!

Looks like a fun project! Heres a couple pictures of a DI that I am currently restoring for a customer,and another that I did a year ago.

[attachment=147:DI_33.jpg]

Still haven't done a whole lot, but there are plenty of shiny new parts to play with! Have the block (sleeved back to standard) pistons, oversize piston pins, connecting rods (bored out piston pin bushings), and rings!

I'm not sure what the total cost will be yet. They still have the cylinder head!

Brandon

An update! Not much progress, but a bunch of parts!


Here's a photo of some of the miscellaneous primed parts.


A photo of the fuel tank. There was a nice dent in the bottom, but that was blown out with air. The small gas tank bothers me a bit for its appearance. I want to try to get that dent out, but I don't think much can be done about all the soldering.


A pic of the nice shiney HEAD. Whee! We finally have all the mechanical parts back from the machine shop! There was a lot of work involved. Had to pin a crack in the head, it was resurfaced on the block and manifold surfaces, a helicoil installed for one of the manifold studs. New valve guides, ground valves. The block had been sleeved and bored. The pistons got new oversize pins and all the work that is involved with that. The total for parts and labor was $1500. Ouch. But I feel that I got what I paid for, there was ALOT done. $600 just in parts.


A photo of the brake shoes! It took me a good six months to find the two that were missing, along with all the other parts that I needed (the right side was totally gone). I got most of the brake parts I needed from Glen in TX (from this board), one part from Denglers in Ohio (ouch) and I finally got these shoes by placing a wanted ad in the March Two Cylinder Magazine. I got a very nice phone call from Don Dufner of all people! He sent me the two shoes BEFORE I paid him. This level of trust was amazing to me. I paid $200 for two shoes and I feel that was pretty fair for both of us.



Now I need to reline them. If anyone knows how thick the linings need to be, I would appreciate that info! Or if someone actually has the linings, that would be fine!

It's great to see some progress on the parts aspect!

Brandon

Your progress looks good Brandon. I know these things take time. Last yeat I finished a 1937 'A'. Your tales are brining back alot of fond memories. As far as brake linings go, I just took mine to a local brake shop (a good commercial one) and they slapped on new lings for $20 or so, I don't think the thickness was all that relavant - at least on mine it wasn't.

I too, am thinking about restoring a 'D' but have been a little intimidated about the size/weight of things but after looking at your pics, etc am getting the nerve up a little.

Thanks fro sharing.

Jdnut, thanks for the comments. Yes, some of these parts are freaking heavy! But if you have the right equipment, or help, it isn't bad.

An update:



Some of the parts sitting in my truck. Note the nice yellow paint. Or what's left of it!



Some evidence of road building history. Asphalt!



The rear wheel hub/brake drum. Big suckers!





A combo of asphalt and yellow paint! Sorry, but I love this evidence. Too bad it can't stay.


Some blasting

One of the rear hubs and rims. The rim is STUCK on the hub with rust. The rim also has a hole in it.


The hole was cut out, and will be patched. The rim is in great shape otherwise.


A comparison of the original wheel brake pedal (in primer) vs the one I bought off of a styled D. Same number, but JD changed the location of the bracket holes! I don't know when, but I suspect clearance issues with the styled platform, or when they moved to the larger diameter wheels. I'm not going to worry about it, but it does annoy me a little.


The wheel brake shoes also changed. The top two are original, the bottom two from a styled D. The numbers are the same, and I can't find anything different, except that the number changed position.


My uncle (left) and grandfather on the right, after we managed to get the rim off. The rim was supported off the floor on blocks...LOTS of beating on the outside with a blunt air chisel and needle scaler plus application of a sledge was used to break the rust loose and allow the HEAVY cast center to drop to the floor in the middle. It didn't "bounce" at all. Just a heavy THUD. Good thing too, 'cause we were considering lighting it on fire.


Some of the grime on that insanely heavy hub


Me and the needle scaler


The hub after needle scaling and wire wheeling


There is a "bead" of rust pitting all the way around the rim, where water was held against it and allowed to rust. It rusted from the OUTSIDE in. The valvestem and all the rest is fine. The tires were loaded with calcium and it never hurt the rim. That's a shock.


The blasting cabinet in action

Another note, the rear rim has been welded up, cleaned and painted. No pic yet, but we also found a stamp on the inside, made by Firestone in 1947! Replacement rim!

Hope this is slightly interesting. I have a digital camera, and I'm not afraid to use it, or to bore you with it!

Brandon

Brandon, feel free to "BORE" me anytime.Keep up the good work and thanks for your time, Take care. Dave

More updating. Just tinkering, but it LOOKS like progress:


The repaired rim, painted with, well, anything to avoid rust


The repaired rim has a Firestone stamp and '47 date!


Since I still had somehow lost all my good pics of the tag, here it is.




A WHOLE lot of work with a grinder and wire wheel to shine up the main case. I only got about a 1/3 done before I took a break....I started on the BOTTOM, and I was whipped


And primered it via spraycan. It needed SOMETHING, so that's better than letting it rust again


Also smoothing out the radiator tank flanges with a metal putty type product. There's no stress or real heat there, and it should keep it from leaking



This is what I found on Saturday. Gramps had finished the grinding/priming

One more pic of the whole thing


This STUPID freaking oil slinger drive pin took three guys about three or four HOURS hours to fix. And it was a rig job at that. The original was worn down to a nub so small we couldn't grip it. At first we thought it was threaded, and they started drilling....but then I came back home and removed the pin from the 70D flywheel, found it was just a smooth shaft. Thus we couldn't rely on twisting it to remove it. We couldn't get it to move in any way, rotationally or vertically. Then the drill bit snapped off in the hole. That was nice. We were screwed. Nothing, from heating to beating would make it budge rotationally. My uncle got the idea of beating it DOWN. It moved allright. But then there was no way to get it out. Tried a tap to pull it out, but there wasn't enough material (with that drill bit in the bottom). Eventually we just drilled it out to the correct size as far as possible...down to the broken bit. Took the pin from the 70, shortened it an 1/8 or so, and stuck it in the hole. It works. What a rig job. I pity the poor soul that comes after us.

Did I mention the flywheel position screw? The original was ruined. My fault for pulling the slinger over it without removal. There wasn't enough of a head left. I knew it didn't do a whole lot...it just makes sure the flywheel is on correctly. Since it's marked, we're good. But that screw needed to come out to get the slinger back on. Well stand back. Grandpa whips out the grinder and the screw is ground flush with the crank. Problem solved. He's a "rigger" and I shoulda knew better.


A collection of parts that are headed over to our place and the parts washer. Greasy job. While doing that, found that one of the axle bearings is very pitted, Timken 580. Should have looked at it before. But luckily it's the cheaper one of the two, and I can get it for $20.

Brandon

Wow what a project. I wish I had all the tools you have and the nice work shop. It's going to look sweet when it's finished. Thanks for the photo's and keep up the good work.

OK, time for a WAY OVERDUE update!

Things had been going slow, not alot to say, then it went into overdrive and I didn't keep up with the updates at all! Sorry.


April 6th, 2008
The relined brake shoes. What a PAIN, but a very educational experience, and much cheaper to do it myself than through one of the local brake shops. Got the rivets from Deere, and the lining from McMaster Carr. Drilling and then countersinking 72 holes in precisely the right spot was a bit of a challenge.


The yeller service brake casting.


The two rear axle housings. One's been stripped and painted at this point, the other not. They are the same casting number, but not duplicates BUT both are original. Really the only difference that I could find was that the casting number was moved into a different location. After these pics, I smacked in some new outer bearing races. Those were pitted. The inside bearings were fine.


August 2nd, 2008
New Vs Old rear axle felts!


One axle/housing back on. HEAVY buggers, and a pain to get it all lined up and in place. It took three people to hold the housing, hold the sprocket, and to see how things were lined up!


Both rear axles on now! After they were on, and we rotated them to get the right slack in the drive chains, I loosened the trumpets slightly, enough to squeeze in some silicone between them and the main case. I also squirted silicone around the bolts/trumpets and tightened them down.


THE torque wrench!


August 18
This is the new radiator core from Detwilers. The only problem is that they stuffed it into a small box, requiring bending the top core sheet to fit in the box! I guess shipping might have been prohibitive. So I clamped it down as shown here to do some rather vicious bodywork, straightening out the bend!


Bolted onto the top tank! The only issue I noted with the core (besides the bent sheet) was that the two bolt holes for the upper water pipe were actually too small. We drilled them out later. I got a radiator bolt kit from Correct Connection. I ended up taking this back apart to slap some paint on the core braces (or whatever they're called).

August 28th, 2008


A MAJOR jump in the project. Gramps and my uncle got crazy and threw the block onto the tractor. The next day I came along and helped wheel the front axle underneath.

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September 2, 2008

As I then went on a preplanned trip to Washington DC, They then proceeded to throw in the enormous pistons and connection rods! Just to recap, the cylinders were sleeved back to standard, and these are stock size cast iron pistons. Apparently they used screwdrivers as ring compressors. Makes me shudder.


I snapped this quick shot before I left for the day. That bluish stuff is assembly lube. Unfortunately, I had to come back later...
and put the rod caps on the RIGHT way. Due to a misunderstanding due to multiple markings, they were both upside down. I only noticed because the thing was nearly IMPOSSIBLE to turn over...with no head on the engine. The confusion started, because when we took it apart, one cap was already upside down (and had been that way for decades) So we marked that one, so we'd put it back in the same way. But didn't mark #2, because it was ALREADY marked correctly. To sum it up, the caps were put on correctly (or at least the way it was when WE opened it up). It became SLIGHTLY easier to turn over. Ring drag still makes it a bear to turn over though.

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September 6, 2008

I put the head on by myself (hey it was nearly midnight) and used the hoist to do so!


That wrench is so enormous it's hilarious! Don't worry, I took that extension off to do the final torque. 208 foot pounds!


The head is ON.

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September 7th



Fanshaft, water pipes, manifold, and the rocker cover. The fanshaft took a bit of head scratching to figure out how it went together. The illustrations we had were for styled tractors...and I'm not the one that did it the first time. But we figured it out!


Then my goal became...put the BRAKES on!


And this is what no one ever sees! This is the left side (with the original shoes-put them on the wrong side, but don't tell anyone). One thing I noticed (now that everything is assembled and MOVES like it should)...one of the "new to me" shoes was actually manufactured wrong. The holes were about a 1/16th of an inch off for the wheels that ride on the cam that moves the shoes in/out. So instead of the shoe rolling smoothly on the wheels, the cam actually is pushing on the shoe. It works just fine, and I didn't have the time or any real way of fixing it. And another shoe at $100 just ain't gonna happen. Yeah, that's a high price. It took me a YEAR to find them.

They cleaned up the other hub that we forgot to clean!


The hardest part was getting the tractor out from under the homemade axle and onto jackstands.

We used the skid steer to set the hubs on blocks above the floor, then bolted the rims in place. Stood the whole thing up, rolled it over to the tractor, and used the hoist to raise it into place, then bolt on!

THEN we needed to raise the whole tractor to make room for tires. With the addition of the hubs and rims, this became a bit of a problem. Those suckers are HEAVY. It was secure on heavy jackstands, but the 2 ton floor jack just LAUGHED at the idea of raising the rear end of the tractor any higher. The overhead hoist isn't any better. AND our bottle jacks wouldn't fit underneath. !@#$%

It took a scary combo of floorjack and overhead hoist to raise the tractor enough to slip the bottle jack underneath before it crept back down under the weight. This was accomplished, and the tractor was raised enough to give room for tires in the future!


Oil line to tappet cover....air cleaner body...the fan, spring, etc, fuel tank brackets.

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September 8th

Sandblasted the throttle lever. Found out that it had been farmerized quite a bit! Note that it's been WELDED back together. Nice!


A general shot of the progress. It's got a carb now, and the clutch lever is on...and throttle is all hooked up. I ended up taking those levers back off to disassemble/wire wheel/sandblast. I ended up massacring the clutch lever pivot pin in the process (at least the threads).The flywheel is on, but not tight at this point.


Sorry, but those hubs just amaze me. They are HEAVY boys.

I sandblasted the clutch lever and found SMALL traces of yellow paint underneath the surface rust. I had to photograph it, because this REALLY surprised me. It seems that this is the original clutch lever? Which is odd. I dunno for sure. All the pictures I've seen of original DIs (including those from the '30s) have a clutch lever shaped like a Y.



Yellow on the clutch linkage.


Mig wire/safety wire on the crank dust cover


Painting booth


This bit of brake linkage is one of the few original left side brake parts. It hung underneath the tractor for years, and was bent like a prezel, not to mention seized up beyond any adjustment. Heating and beating did wonders! That shaft in the upper part of the photo is for the service brake.

The service brake...another issue to solve. Got a new lining from Deere, that was no issue. But the brake also leaked ALOT of oil. The seal is no longer available, and it seems to be an odd size that no one makes? I ended up finding a seal with the proper inside diameter, but a smaller outside diameter. This was then glued into place using Gorilla Glue, held in place/centered with the shaft. I was going to top this off with some silicone, but it ended up being installed before I could do so.

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September 9th-11th,




Harder to get pictures now, as it is the "small but important stuff" that is being done. The clutch/pulley is all together now, including the linkages, got a new clutch lever pivot pin from the dealer....it was IN STOCK. The service brake/pedal is all hooked up.

It is on TIRES. Grandpa ordered a set of 14.9x28s from a local farm equipment dealer, and got them on Wednesday. I didn't get the total price, but it was around $500. MIGHT have got them cheaper somewhere else, but then there is the cost of shipping/lost time picking them up. I wasn't around, but I guess one tire was a bit of a bear to install. My grandpa and uncle did it themselves.

Slapped together with a "working" platform, it is nearly ready to run! The Magneto is on, and the wires too. Unfortunately I had to take the mag off the next day because I was tired and had the timing off. I assumed the left terminal was the forward terminal, when on the tractor, it is actually the RIGHT terminal that is the forward terminal....stuff like that.

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September 12th, a date which will live in infamy,

Lots of final things. Finding out that the fuel tank was full of crap was a bummer, but we cleaned it out the best we could. Hooked up the sediment bowl, three way valve, fuel lines, etc. They leak like a sieve. Adjusted the valves. Filled up the radiator, and found that the joints at the lower elbows were pouring out the water. Tightened one, and took the other apart to clean up, run a die over the studs, and coat with silicone. Also retightened all the little bolts all over the core.

OK, the tractor was started for the first time in about a decade on September 12th, 2008! It was drizzling outside just a little...so we decided to hand start. It was VERY tight to turn over with the new rings, even when not on the compression stroke. I got the first shot, and was worn out after about three minutes. Then grandpa stepped up and cranked for a few minutes. It popped encouragingly a few times during this process, but no run. Then my uncle stepped up and got her going in a few heaves. SWEET!

Running for the first time:


I DID take a video of the first start, but it's about ten minutes long, and too much to upload.

Whee!

Brandon

Looking good Brandon! Glad to see this long time talked about project coming together! Any updates?