I have an old model 110 lawn tractor. I have had it for 4 years. I bought it used. I love it because so far I have been able to fix any problems that have come up and I can still get parts for it. It has a 10 hp Kohler engine.
Recently I have not been able to get any RPM on the mower deck and the grass is not that thick. I am certain that the PTO clutch is slipping. I am also certain that the clutch pad lining is gone. I have never inspected it and I assume it has never been replaced.

#1 how do I get the cluctch sheave off ? I found and removed an e-ring that I could get to but I don't think that has anything to do with removing the sheave it still does not come off. The diagram in the manual does show a nut. But it's under the floating activator thingy in the center of the sheave ? How do I get this thingy off? I hope someone knows what I am talking about.

#2 I assume I am going to have to buy a new sheave. Whats it going to cost me?

Thanks for any replys.

Jeff, what you are looking for is the bolt that secures the brake pad that stops the PTO pulley when disengaged. It is at the bottom of the pulley. Find this bolt, use a 1/2" (I think) socket, and extension to loosen it enough to let the brake pad hang down far enough to clear the sheeve. If possible, don't take the bolt all the way out, as it's a booger to get started again in the space allowed. When reassembling, engage the clutch, and set this brake pad about .060-.100" from pulley. Make sure it contacts when disengaged to stop PTO sheeve.
The sheeve should then slip off. The lining will be on the cone which is part of the traction drive pulley. To remove it, take the bolt out of the end of the crankshaft, and slip the keyed bearing race off. Lock the clutch pedal down to loosen the belt and slide (keyed) traction drive pulley off. An impact wrench is best for this bolt. It is a standard right hand thread.
Now, with all that said, I'm hoping you just need to clean every thing with brake cleaner, repack needle bearings in sheeve, put in a new seal, reassemble, and adjust the clutch properly. The friction cone lining is not replacable, have to replace the pulley. I'd estimate $150, but haven't priced one for a while. Good used ones are available. The lining is not much more than 1/8" thick to start with and should work untill it's completely gone.
The manual PTO clutch is looks pretty much the same for all 110's and 112's, but there are some variations for engine and model years. The clutch linkage and adjustment are quite different thru the model years, however and require their own adjustment procedures. The one thing that is common, I believe, is the arm that moves the sheeve in and out, should be parallel to the sheeve face when engaged. This usually requires adjustments at two places.
That snap ring retaines another bearing for the engagement "button".

Also, before doing all of this, make sure the drive belt is tight and the belt inside the deck is good along with proper spring tension on the idler.

Good luck, sorry it took so long for a response.

tommyhawk

Thanks for the response Tommy. I had already figured out all of the above. Including the part about the brake pad being a booger to get back on. It was. Not knowing what was acceptable wear on the clutch I took the cone with clutch pad down to my local John Deere dealer. They told me that there was more than enough pad left and that I should just adjust the clutch. I did and it works great again. I was really impressed with my local John Deere dealer. Almost as much as I am with my model 110.
Thanks again

Jeff